Monday, April 6, 2009
About a year ago, I sold Adam Stevenson (of Earth and Ocean) a year-old, specially-fattened Berkshire hog. Yesterday, he came by the farmers' market and gave me a few slices of the ham he made from it.
It is delicious! The fat on it tastes very clean. It is hard and white - not soft and rancid, as one finds in so many American cured products.
Adam and his crew were surprised the ham was so marbled. Marbling is substantially controlled via genetics. If you feed the right Berkshire hog to a very heavy weight, you can get that kind of marbling. Alternatively, you can take a more fat-prone pig, like a Mangalitsa, and get marbling that high at younger age.
If you go to Earth and Ocean (in the W Hotels building on 4th Street in downtown Seattle), you can get Adam's ham sandwich, which uses this ham.
When Christoph Wiesner was here, he ate some of Keith Luce's ham, which came from a pig in the same batch. Christoph agreed that it was a very good ham.
In about a year, The French Laundry and The Herbfarm will be serving their first Mangalitsa hams. That will be neat!
Posted by Heath Putnam at 12:44 PM