Friday, May 7, 2010
There's an article on an Austrian website about Wolfgang Pucher and his Mangalitsa pigs (translated article here).
He refers to the 5 A's, the saying, "Alles anders als alle Anderen" -- everything different from all others. With Mangalitsa pigs, that's true - they are completely different - the inconvenient hair, the small litters, the massive quantity of high-value fat, the incredibly meaty meat, etc.
Pucher has produced really great stuff, including the fatback used to make the lardo above. I ate that lardo, and it changed my life.
The article also mentions Chef Manfred Stockner, one of the best chefs in Austria, and a guy skilled at using entire Mangalitsa pigs in a fine dining setting.
Pucher mentions the difficulty of finding good processing for his pigs - a big problem for a small specialty producer. Reading about his problems, I get happy about Swiss Meats.
Pucher says the Manglaitsa lardo is the best product to make from the pigs. I think I understand why he says that; the Mangalitsa produces fat very efficiently, and its fatback tastes ridiculously good.
Posted by Heath Putnam at 6:17 PM